Machu Picchu: A Challenging Landscape Photography Icon

Machu Picchu is on everyone’s bucket list…and with good reason.

Nestled on a rocky saddle stretching between two mountains, the ancient citadel overlooks the Urubamba River which cuts a channel 1,600 feet below. Surrounded by clouds at nearly 8,000 feet, Machu Picchu’s green lawns and grey stonework are a striking contrast to the surrounding Peruvian rainforest that constantly strives to reclaim it.

As a tourist destination, it is simply inspired, incredible and breath-taking…which is why it was voted as One of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World.

But as a photo location, it can be a bit of challenge.

Rules, Rules, Rules

To prevent Machu Picchu from being ‘loved to death’ the authorities have implemented several rules and regulations. They serve their purpose, but unfortunately they also make things difficult for photographers. For example:

• You can’t bring a tripod or a drone.
• You have to go with a tour guide.
• You are restricted to specific trails and you have to stay on the marked path.
• You can’t back up on a trail if you want to grab a shot of something you already passed: trails are one-way only.
• You have to purchase tickets in advance that restrict you to a set entry time…and you can only stay for a maximum of 4 hours.
• I visited in November of 2022, so check here to see the latest rules…they may have gotten easier (or not).

Plus…I wasn’t on a photo-tour. I was with a regular “tourist” group. Our ‘appointment time’ was right after noon, possibly the worst time of the day for good light.

So, was it worth it?

Since I had done my research ahead of time, I had the right equipment and a strategy of how to accommodate the rules (see this article for a good overview).

As it turns out my greatest challenge (and opportunity) wasn’t due to man-made rules. It was mother nature.

I arrived in November, at the beginning of the rainy season. The day before and after my visit were beautiful with blue skies and fluffy white clouds. Things started out the same way the morning I was there. But just as we approached the entrance, the clouds came scuttling in. During the rest of my visit, the sun poked thru the clouds for a grand total of 16 minutes (yes, I counted).

And I was a happy boy! The folks on my tour, who weren’t photographers, must have thought I was crazy (they may well be right). But the clouds provided a moody ambiance that sporadically was pierced by sunlight illuminating sections of the ruins and surrounding mountainsides. That resulted in far more dramatic photographs than any sunny day would have provided.

Shooting Details

Since I was shooting hand-held, I used my camera’s manual mode. Most of my frames were at a speed of 1/125th to avoid camera shake. I kept my aperture around f/8 to maximise sharpness and set my ISO on auto. My Nikon Z7 II handles high ISO well and I cleaned up the residual noise in Nik DeNoise AI. I exclusively used my Nikon Z 27-70 f/2.8 S lens.

I was lucky that the sun’s brief appearance occurred during the first 30 minutes of my tour when we were located near the scenic overlook close to the Guardian’s House. I’ve always thought this was the most impressive view of the site, so I took full advantage.

Sol’s Exit

And all too quickly, the sun slid behind some clouds and never returned. The remaining three hours of the tour were overcast and I made the best of it.

As we worked our way down into the ruins, the vast number and size of the Incan terraces became apparent. The amount of labor it must have taken to create them is mind-boggling.

My wife spotted what I thought was a chinchilla, but turned out to actually be a close relative known as a Viscacha.

Our 3 1/2 hours passed quickly. Before I knew it, I was shaking off my rain jacket and climbing back on the bus for the ride down the mountain.

Thinking back now, I realize that this trip was like so many of my photography experiences. I had done a lot of research, had the right equipment, and had a plan. And like so many of my previous trips, the plan went right out the window as soon as I arrived. But the resulting excitement/fear is energizing. It forces you to think, improvise and create. In many ways, this is what makes landscape photography fun.

Local Color

Let me wrap-up by sharing a few street photographs of some of the fascinating locals in their unique, colorful and quixotic clothing.

Cheers!
Jeff

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